Review: Decleor Aroma Lisse Energising Smoothing Cream SPF 15 [updated]

Hello! I’m becoming SO tardy with posting >.< Sorry. I feel like I do have reason to apologise because I’m getting quite a lot of hits from people searching for the ingredients in Decleor’s Energising Smoothing Cream (SPF 15) (£52/50ml) from the new Aroma Lisse range - which are nowhere to be found on my blogge. Sorry for the disappointment :( DECLEOR HOW ABOUT PUBLISHING SOME INGREDIENTS LISTS INSTEAD OF SENDING PEOPLE TO TRAWL THE INTERNET YEAH?

Anyhoos I’ve typed it up now so you’ve come to the right place! It took me a while to get round to it because the list is absolutely mahoussive. Like literally, not even figuratively, it’s the longest I’ve seen with 50+ ingredients o.O

Here we go….

Aqua (water)

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate - an emollient & thickening agent

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate - (AKA Octinoxate) Filters UVB rays [chemical filter]

Butylene Glycol - a ‘slip agent’

Ethylhexyl Salicylate - (AKA Octyl Salicylate) Absorbs UVB rays [chemical filter]

Beheneth-25 - a surfactant

Dimethicone - silicone

Beheneth-10 - a surfactant

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane - (AKA Avobenzone) Absorbs full-spectrum of UVA rays. [chemical filter]

Glycerin - a humectant

Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil - Contains Vitamin E. Helps repair the skin and reduce inflammation.

Mica - Mica is translucent and is often added to face powders because of its light reflecting quality, making skin look smoother and more radiant.

Cyclopentasiloxane - silicone

PEG-32 - emulsifier/thickening agent

PEG-6 - humectant

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloydimethyl Taurate Copolymer - stabiliser

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil - anti-inflammatory properties

Phenyl Trimethicone - silicone

PEG-6 Isostearate - emulsifier

Aluminium Hydroxide - protects the skin

Parfum (Fragrance)

Phenoxyethanol - preservative

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

Propylene Glycol - a ‘delivery agent’

Stearyl Alcohol - a fatty alcohol

Triethanolamine - PH balancer

Caprylyl Glycol - a preservative

Dimethicone Crosspolymer - silicone

Limonene - fragrance ingredient

Alpinia Galanga Leaf Extract - Ginger leaf extract

Pentylene Glycol - skin conditioning agent

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract - moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties.

CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) - protects against short but not long UVA rays and UVB. (Zinc Oxide is broad spectrum, i.e. most UVA and UVB) [physical filter]

Xanthan Gum - thickening agent

Disodium EDTA - chelating agent

Polysorbate 60 - emulsifier & surfactant

Sorbitan Isostearate - fatty acid, emulsifying agent

Tocopherol - AKA Vitamin E

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil - astringent properties. Can cause skin irritation

Citral - fragrance ingredient

Sodium Hyaluronate - a humectant

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil - antioxidant properties

Hesperetin Laurate - anti-oxidant, humectant

Citrus Aurantium (Bergamot) Bergamia Fruit Oil - Astringent properties, apparently phototoxic

Citrus Nobilus (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil - Decleor have apparently proven that the anti-oxidant powers of mandarin essential oil helps maintain skins’ youthfulness (in vitro tests)

Biosaccharide Gum-1 - smoothes dry/damaged skin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - an emollient

Linalool - Fragrance ingredient

Panax Ginseng Root Extract - Anti-oxidant properties

Methylisothiazolinone - preservative

Ethylhexylglycerin - smoothes dry/damaged skin

Citronellol - fragrance ingredient

Geranoil - fragrance ingredient

YAAAAAAWN. I made myself a tea halfway through that. Since no-one can be bothered with long-ass lists, I've tried to sum up the more important ingredients:

The Goodies

The ones that stand out to me are glycerin, sunflower seed oil and evening primrose oil. Theres also stearyl alcohol, oat kernel extract, hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate), soybean oil and ginseng root extract. On Decleor’s website, orange flavonoids (i.e. bergamot and mandarin orange peel oil), hyaluronic acid and ginseng extract are singled out as the ‘key active ingredients’. To avoid repetition of previous posts, let’s just say that I dislike orange flavonoids (‘citrusy stuff’). But never mind that: the problem with these key actives is that they’re all in smaller quantities than fragrance. (I underlined it for this reason.) I don’t know the actual quantities of these ingredients, but it’s pretty disappointing that there’s less of them than there is perfume!

SPF

In my ‘first thoughts’ post, I mentioned that I disliked products with added SPF because they tend to use chemical filters. Theres evidence on both sides regarding their safety but I prefer to avoid them. As predicted, the Energising Smoothing Cream contains chemical filters (Octinoxate, Octyl Salicylate and Avobenzone) so it’s a no-no for me :(

Petrochemicals

This contains a number of petrochemicals (silicones and butylene glycol) so that’s something to keep in mind if you’re on the mineral oil hating bandwagon.

Silicones
I really, really dislike silicones in skincare - and this moisturiser has loads of 'em. Like mineral oil, silicones are an occlusive moisturiser. They make the skin feel smooth and silky, but I think there are better ingredients like hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs etc. That said, I do love my Elemis Marine Cream, which has good ingredients and yes: silicones.

Mica

MICAAAAHHH!! Or not. Mica is typically added to make-up for some sparkle, and I'd rather it stayed there - I don't need a shimmery face cream! I've flagged it up because mica can be the culprit behind adverse reactions to mineral make-up.

PEGs
A small number of companies offer PEG-free products, typically organic/'natural' brands - e.g. Estelle & Thild, The Organic Pharmacy, balance Me, REN, Burt's Bees, Melvita and Dr. Hauschka. What's so bad about PEGs for companies to offer PEG-free products? According to truthinageing.com, the main concerns are: 

• An enhanced penetration effect -> important bc if your product contains a load of other crap, PEGs will make it easier for them to get deep down into the skin.
• PEGs are not always pure -> PEG-6 (which is in this cream) contains the by-product dioxane which is a known carcinogen. A reputable brand should remove the toxic impurities but ... yah I'm worried too after reading that haha.
• Concerns re damaged skin -> PEGs may cause irritation, but that usually depends on the state of the skin and ingredients in other stuff you're applying. So the bottom line is: avoid.

Uguisi no Fun

This is a centuries old beauty secret hailing from the Edo period. Women in ancient Japan applied uguisi no fun, which loosely translates to 'Nightingale Droppings' to lighten and soften their skin. Scientists at Decleor have given this ancient secret a new lease of life by isolating the natural enzymes and - I'm kidding. Just checking you're awake ;)

Would I buy it? Having used up my sample, I would not. The ingredients just aren't all that impressive. Some people might appreciate the suncream and moisturiser combo but I prefer to keep them separate. I avoid chemical filters and the SPF is too low for me - and you'd need to apply a lot of it to even get that sun protection. As a moisturiser, I found it absorbed well but wasn't very hydrating. I'd probably need to follow with an emulsion in hot/dry weather. The pump packaging is great, making it more hygienic than most of Decleor's other moisturisers (which are sold in jars), but otherwise not a superior product!

One Week On - Decleor's Aroma Lisse Range

So, I stopped using the new Aroma Lisse products after less than a week - care to guess why? SPOTS. Effing spots AGAIN. Standard way of knowing whether something works for me. I don't believe your skin needs to "get used" to new products - that’s your skin saying “Hello, I’m inflamed. Be a good fellow and stop torturing me aye?.” It started off with two spots on my cheek (where I’ve never ever had spots before). A few days later I sprouted two more spots on my forehead and figured that was the time to stop before they formed a constellation. Once again, I don’t know which product is the culprit, but since there are four spots for four products I’ll divide the blame equally.

I wish I could pinpoint one ingredient causing irritation but there are quite a few suspects: shea butter, citrusy stuff (mandarin essential oil, bergamot fruit oil, lemon peel oil), generic “fragrance”, fragranced essential oils or even non-fragrant essential oils … Which are all ingredients in some other products I use that haven't caused any problems! Perhaps I’m overloading my skin? Whatever the reason, I’m not particularly enthused by this line. Sorry Decleor.

April resolution: I’ve tested a lot of new products since the start of the year so for the next few weeks I’m going to give my skin a break and stick to my tried and tested routine.