Review : DHC Deep Cleansing Oil

Thinking back, DHC’s Deep Cleansing Oil and I were doomed from the start. I ordered a bottle online which cracked during transit and leaked everywhere. Excellent. (I was sent a replacement pronto though) Little hiccup aside, I was quite looking forward to trying a Japanese oil cleanser. (Japanese!!) Shu Uemura’s cleansing oils have held the number one spot in Asia for fifty years, with one sold every seven seconds, and the Deep Cleansing Oil isn’t far behind with one bottle sold every 10 seconds worldwide. Pretty impressive eh? And whereas Shu Uemura cleansers are mineral oil based, DHC uses olive oil. And DHC is so much more affordable.

The ingredients are short and simple:

Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil - hydrating, rich in anti-oxidants (and non-fragrant)

Caprylic/capric triglyceride - moisturises and repairs the skin

Sorbeth-30 tetraoleate - a surfactant

Pentylene glycol - a solvent (removes excess sebum)

Phenoxyethanol - a preservative

Tocopherol - Vitamin E

Stearyl glycyrrhetinate - an anti-irritant

Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil - fragrant plant extract

I’ve only used one oil cleanser before and that’s Origins Clean Energy (reviewed here) and I thought it’d be handy to compare the two:

• Ingredients:  The top ingredient in both is olive oil. Clean Energy is a blend of oils, whereas Deep Cleaning Oil (DCO) is mainly olive oil and a surfactant for cleansing power.
• Fragrance: DCO is almost fragrant free (rosemary is at the bottom of the list so it'd be a small amount), whereas Clean Energy has loads of it in the form of fragrant essential oils - sweet orange, lemon, bergamot …
• Smell: I don’t recall Origins having any particular smell, but DCO has a distinctive plasticy smell… It’s a bit strange but not vomit inducing. 
• Packaging: DCO comes in a pump bottle. Thumps up for being hygienic and easy to use. Clean Energy also comes in a bottle but with the pump sold separately. On the plus side, that means you could change the cap and pack it in a suitcase (assuming you were willing to risk an oil spillage). DHC’s bottle isn’t sealable, and it didn’t survive transit in a courier service so I don’t even wanna imagine how it’d fare in a luggage hold.
• Price: DCO is £21.50/200ml, Clean Energy is £21/200ml plus £2 for the pump.
• How long does it last? A 200ml bottle of Clean Energy lasts about four months so I'd assume DCO goes for the same.

You use the Deep Cleansing Oil as you would any other oil cleanser: a couple of pumps into dry hands, massage, add water to emulsify and rinse off with a flannel. As part of the ‘cleansing process’, follow up with a second cleanser. It removes make-up etc. thoroughly and leaves the skin feeling nice and soft - no problems here. The reason I stopped using it is because it might have caused/exacerbated a Vesuvius of a breakout. (Read that lovely post here) The spots calmed down after I stopped using it so I thought ‘hey, must be the olive oil’. I recently tried a new cleansing butter and just a few days later I felt little nasties brewing under the surface of my skin. After the waxes and synthetics, there is was again: olive fruit oil. I thought it MUST be the olive oil … ‘Cept that little theory is defeated by Clean Energy - which contains olive oil :/ Very strange indeed.

So now I’m on the lookout for a reasonably priced cleanser free of olive oil and synthetics ... any suggestions?

Re-thinking my Skincare Routine / Indeed Labs Hydraluron: is it worth the hype?

Anyone who follows/worships the world of Asian skincare will surely have heard of Hada Labo’s Super Hyaluronic Acid Lotion. With one sold every four seconds in Japan, promises of soft bouncy skin, endless praise blahblahblah who wouldn't want a bottle for themselves? I certainly do, but you can't buy it in the UK :( So when I first heard about the launch of Hydraluron I jumped at the opportunity to buy a similar product. The key ingredient is Sodium Hyaluronate so it should be a great product - in theory. I'm down to my last tube after using it for about two years (thank you, 3-for-2 at Boots for the never-ending supply) and I'm only now questioning whether it actually does anything. When in doubt, ask the Internet. A Google search for “hydraluron does it work” brings up pages and pages of reviews, praises and ballads upon Hydraluron:

• Plumps the skin
• Skin appears more glowy
• Restores dull and dry skin
• Fewer breakouts
• Helped scars heal and fade more quickly

I’m not sure how this landed in cult status territory because I don't think it's anywhere near as good as it's cracked up to be! Or have I simply been using it for too long to remember any difference? Because of that, I decided to do a little experiment. Rather than stop using Hydraluron altogether to see if I would notice a difference, I thought I'd test it against other serums by using Hydraluron on one half of my face and a different serum on the other.

vs Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale Longevity Concentrate
My sample of Orchide Imperiale lasted 11 days and by the end of it I thought my complexion looked better on the Guerlain side. My skin felt smoother and I was convinced that my cheeks felt fuller, more plump and boingy. I briefly thought of buying this til I found it costs £300. Yah.

vs Guerlain Super-Aqua Serum Light
This sample lasted six days. After much pinching and squashing of cheeks, I had to conclude that there was no difference between using the two. The side with Hydraluron felt smoother after application, but I think this is just a temporary thing to do with the formula.

vs Guerlain Abeille Royale Serum Jeunesse
More from Guerlain! This sample lasted four days and again, both sides felt the same by the end.

vs Astalift Jelly Aquarysta Rejuvenating Concentrate
I have a full 15ml pot of this but only used it for one day :( By the time I came home in the evening, I had two spots on my forehead, and I could feel two more lurking below the surface - all on the Astalift side. Do not megusta.

vs Melvita Eau Extraordinaire Fleurs d'Oranger - Hydration (Orange Blossom Extraordinary Water - Hydration)
This sample lasted five days. I could have got more out of it had I not spilled half on my dressing table. The "eau" part of it is no joke. This 'extraordinary water' (that name wtf) felt a little dry when first applied, but this went away when followed with moisturiser etc.

vs Ole Henriksen Truth Serum Collagen Booster
I used this for two weeks to see if not using a hydrating serum would make a difference.

Drum roll: after one month plus of using Hydraluron on only one side .. there was no difference. My skin wasn’t any drier, no less “plump” or spot-prone (ignoring the Astalift jelly), hyperpigmentation still there, face still intact ... So what DOES it do - if anything?

The Claims:
  1.  Reinforces skin's natural short and long term moisturisation
  2.  Increases hydration from below the surface

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant. Humectants retain moisture => immediate difference in skin hydration. Ok. I'm less sure of the 'long-term' benefit though. Since I don’t have a chemistry degree I relied on snippets from articles and journals floating around the internet (heck at least I admit my ignorance) to erm, ‘establish’ that hyaluronic acid molecules are too big to penetrate the skin’s deeper layers. Hyaluronic acid provides effective surface hydration and supports the skin’s protective barrier but topical application won’t boost our ‘natural’ store of hyaluronic acid or send wrinkles to Neverland. It can help prevent the appearance of fine lines etc. by keeping the skin hydrated.

  3.  Plumps up skin tissue to restore elasticity and firmness 

Theres a little graph printed on the packaging about an in-vivo clinical trial conducted over eight weeks that showed an increase of skin elasticity by 27% and decreases surface roughness by 10%. In-vivo testing is great - it means tests on people, not in test tubes. You know how many participants that study had? TWELVE. Taking the concept of a 'trial' literally.

How can you ‘plump up’ the skin without dermal fillers? I'm going to guess that this relates to dehydration. (Not 'dry skin' a la Helena Rubenstein) There's a simple way of testing dehydration by pinching (facial) cheeks. Normal skin will quickly 'bounce' back. Skin with low turgor goes back to normal more slowly, which can be a sign of dehydration. For the sake of your health you'll need to increase water intake. For your skin, a humectant like HA will help skin retain moisture.

All in all, this is definitely not one of my skincare saviours. I'm not really convinced it does anything! I do want to use some kind of hyaluronic acid serum and I have my eye on Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel but it's a bit too expensive :/

Dealing with Spots & Acne

Spots & acne: the story of my life eh. I suffer from hormonal breakouts (self-diagnosis), not the more serious 'acne' of Roaccutane adverts. Adequate sleep, Oil of Evening Primrose supplements, simple dietary changes and a decent skincare routine have helped keep my face free of breakouts. Over on the sidebar is a link to my regime: a run-down of the twelve different products I use daily and was confident that they worked. ‘WAS’ confident. That sentiment has changed (I think I cursed myself by claiming spot-free skin for four months) because in the fifth month of May my skin was the worst I'd ever seen it. Red, inflammed and sore-looking - the sorta thing you can't even conceal with five pounds of make-up. But enough of that ~ I thought I'd share what I did to get it back to normal :)

What Changed?

This is obvious but easy to overlook when you're too frustrated about the little volcanoes erupting all over your face. Be honest: did you go on a near suicidal Haribo binge? Stress? Slings and arrows of outrageous fortune hit you in the knee? New products? In my case I think stress + new make-up was the cause. Theres not much you can do about stress, but exercise and sleep helps. (I did little of either.) I stopped using my new foundation but that didn’t solve the problem. So I swapped my usual moisturisers for DHC’s CoEnzyme Q10 Cream, thinking it might be a good idea to avoid shea butter but that didn’t help either. It just got worse, and come end of May, it was so bad that I went to my GP for a prescription for Benzoyl Peroxide and changed a few of my skincare products.

Nothing 'unnecessary' (masks, different serums), no potentially irritating products, no aggressive products (like acid exfoliants) and nothing containing alcohol (particularly important if you're using Benzoyl Peroxide creams). I switched my cleansing oil for a gentle micellaire water and rosehip oil for ylang ylang. I know fragrant essential oils are potentially irritating and all that jazz but my Decleor routine worked wonders for me a few years back so I’m happy to use it again.

New Routine:

• Bioderma Sensibo H20 Solution Micellaire. At £4.50/100ml it’s a cheap buy, but only so-so. You’ll still need a flannel and a second cleanser.
• Una Brennan Superfacialist Neroli Cleanser [reviewed here]
• Lancome Tonique Douceur
• Elemis Pro-Collagen Advanced Eye Treatment serum & Origins Gin Zing Eye Cream
• Decleor Aromessence Ylang Ylang purifying serum
• Hydraluron
• Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream & Elemis Pro-Collagen Oxygenating Night Cream 
• Skinceuticals Sheer Mineral Defence SPF 50 (sample) / John Masters Mineral Suncream SPF 30
• Duac Cream (prescription only). Benzoyl Peroxide is available in over the counter solutions, but some contain Hydroquinone, a potential carcinogen.

So in the morning I used Bioderma > Toner > Eye creams > Ylang Ylang oil > Hydraluron > Moisturiser > Suncream. In the evening: Bioderma > Neroli cleanser > Toner > Eye creams > Moisturiser on non spot infested areas.

Within days the redness had noticeably subsided - probably because I stopped using cleansing oils. I’d been using DHC’s Deep Cleansing Oil since the beginning of May, which coincided with the time I broke out like crazy. It didn’t even occur to me that a fruit I eat so happily could wreak havoc on my skin -.-'

My prescription for Duac (containing 5% Benzoyl Peroxide / 1% Clindamycin) came though a few days later and after four days of use the spots have completely cleared and my skin has smoothed out. Super effective stuff - but not without its side-effects!* If you've been struggling with spots, consult your GP instead of faffing with remedies that don’t work. I’ve tried them all, believe me!

Theres no reason to change your skincare products if they’re well formulated. (Unless they're whats breaking you out.) Try making a few small (and inexpensive) changes when your routine doesn’t cut it anymore. My Elemis creams cost me £200 - there is no frickin way I’m going to stop using them before they run out!

Suncream
If you're struggling with spots/acne, you're probably struggling with hyperpigmentation too. GET A SUNCREAM!! I’ve looked up dozens of them and of the ones I’ve tried myself I’d recommend Skinceuticals Sheer Mineral UV Defence SPF 50. The white cast settles quickly, theres no greasy or heavy feeling so it’s suitable for all skin types and make-up applies ok afterwards. It also comes in a tinted version (Mineral Radiance UV Defence SPF 50) but I haven’t tried it. Skinceuticals is sold in these places. I went to John Bell & Croyden on Wigmore Street, which is also where I discovered Bioderma - right next to the Skinceuticals section :p

Products not to bother with:

• Quick fixes. Maybe these work for people who get the odd spot. I haven’t found them to be at all useful when you have a persistent problem. You need a good routine to keep spots under control.
• Tea Tree Oil is an effective disinfectant but undiluted tea tree oil can cause skin irritation so it should be bought diluted. It’s frequently sold in 1% concentrations - which is not high enough to be of benefit. Plus it stings like hell. 
• Sudocrem. What post on acne would be complete without a mention of Sudocrem? Don’t buy a cream designed for baby butts. Do buy something designed for adults + your face.

A Heavenly light shines upon them

• Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions.  Maybe it's because of the brand's 'professional clinical' image, I find a lot of people recommend Clinique. I used the entire range (Cleansing Foam, Cleansing Bar, Clarifying Lotion, Moisturiser and Cleansing Mask) and it didn’t make a difference. And the Lotion gave me a chemical burn. I don’t bother with products specifically targeted for spots/acne anymore because too many like to equate the drying effect of alcohol to treating your skin. Take the Origins Super Spot Remover. So it’s going to ‘remove’ a spot like Febreeze lifts a stain is it? *Eyeroll* On the other hand, the alcohol content would probably work to remove fabric stains so maybe it’s a double entendre.

Any other suggestions for dealing with outbreaks?

Bisous! Celine

*Some warnings & side-effects of Benzoyl Peroxide:

Increased sensitivity to sunlight - hence why you must use a sun-cream

Redness and dryness of the skin - have you seen this post?

Can bleach fabric and hair. I sometimes get it in my eyebrows and they haven’t gone white like Bak Mei

free samples from omorovicza

There is something to be gained from subscribing to every beauty retailer out there: occasionally, you get a freebie! Omorovicza are currently offering free samples from their Moor Mud Collection, which includes the Refining Facial Polisher, Thermal Cleansing Balm and Deep Cleansing Mask. The link is here :)

Review: Decleor Aroma Lisse Energising Smoothing Cream SPF 15 [updated]

Hello! I’m becoming SO tardy with posting >.< Sorry. I feel like I do have reason to apologise because I’m getting quite a lot of hits from people searching for the ingredients in Decleor’s Energising Smoothing Cream (SPF 15) (£52/50ml) from the new Aroma Lisse range - which are nowhere to be found on my blogge. Sorry for the disappointment :( DECLEOR HOW ABOUT PUBLISHING SOME INGREDIENTS LISTS INSTEAD OF SENDING PEOPLE TO TRAWL THE INTERNET YEAH?

Anyhoos I’ve typed it up now so you’ve come to the right place! It took me a while to get round to it because the list is absolutely mahoussive. Like literally, not even figuratively, it’s the longest I’ve seen with 50+ ingredients o.O

Here we go….

Aqua (water)

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate - an emollient & thickening agent

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate - (AKA Octinoxate) Filters UVB rays [chemical filter]

Butylene Glycol - a ‘slip agent’

Ethylhexyl Salicylate - (AKA Octyl Salicylate) Absorbs UVB rays [chemical filter]

Beheneth-25 - a surfactant

Dimethicone - silicone

Beheneth-10 - a surfactant

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane - (AKA Avobenzone) Absorbs full-spectrum of UVA rays. [chemical filter]

Glycerin - a humectant

Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil - Contains Vitamin E. Helps repair the skin and reduce inflammation.

Mica - Mica is translucent and is often added to face powders because of its light reflecting quality, making skin look smoother and more radiant.

Cyclopentasiloxane - silicone

PEG-32 - emulsifier/thickening agent

PEG-6 - humectant

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloydimethyl Taurate Copolymer - stabiliser

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil - anti-inflammatory properties

Phenyl Trimethicone - silicone

PEG-6 Isostearate - emulsifier

Aluminium Hydroxide - protects the skin

Parfum (Fragrance)

Phenoxyethanol - preservative

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

Propylene Glycol - a ‘delivery agent’

Stearyl Alcohol - a fatty alcohol

Triethanolamine - PH balancer

Caprylyl Glycol - a preservative

Dimethicone Crosspolymer - silicone

Limonene - fragrance ingredient

Alpinia Galanga Leaf Extract - Ginger leaf extract

Pentylene Glycol - skin conditioning agent

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract - moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties.

CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) - protects against short but not long UVA rays and UVB. (Zinc Oxide is broad spectrum, i.e. most UVA and UVB) [physical filter]

Xanthan Gum - thickening agent

Disodium EDTA - chelating agent

Polysorbate 60 - emulsifier & surfactant

Sorbitan Isostearate - fatty acid, emulsifying agent

Tocopherol - AKA Vitamin E

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil - astringent properties. Can cause skin irritation

Citral - fragrance ingredient

Sodium Hyaluronate - a humectant

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil - antioxidant properties

Hesperetin Laurate - anti-oxidant, humectant

Citrus Aurantium (Bergamot) Bergamia Fruit Oil - Astringent properties, apparently phototoxic

Citrus Nobilus (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil - Decleor have apparently proven that the anti-oxidant powers of mandarin essential oil helps maintain skins’ youthfulness (in vitro tests)

Biosaccharide Gum-1 - smoothes dry/damaged skin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - an emollient

Linalool - Fragrance ingredient

Panax Ginseng Root Extract - Anti-oxidant properties

Methylisothiazolinone - preservative

Ethylhexylglycerin - smoothes dry/damaged skin

Citronellol - fragrance ingredient

Geranoil - fragrance ingredient

YAAAAAAWN. I made myself a tea halfway through that. Since no-one can be bothered with long-ass lists, I've tried to sum up the more important ingredients:

The Goodies

The ones that stand out to me are glycerin, sunflower seed oil and evening primrose oil. Theres also stearyl alcohol, oat kernel extract, hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate), soybean oil and ginseng root extract. On Decleor’s website, orange flavonoids (i.e. bergamot and mandarin orange peel oil), hyaluronic acid and ginseng extract are singled out as the ‘key active ingredients’. To avoid repetition of previous posts, let’s just say that I dislike orange flavonoids (‘citrusy stuff’). But never mind that: the problem with these key actives is that they’re all in smaller quantities than fragrance. (I underlined it for this reason.) I don’t know the actual quantities of these ingredients, but it’s pretty disappointing that there’s less of them than there is perfume!

SPF

In my ‘first thoughts’ post, I mentioned that I disliked products with added SPF because they tend to use chemical filters. Theres evidence on both sides regarding their safety but I prefer to avoid them. As predicted, the Energising Smoothing Cream contains chemical filters (Octinoxate, Octyl Salicylate and Avobenzone) so it’s a no-no for me :(

Petrochemicals

This contains a number of petrochemicals (silicones and butylene glycol) so that’s something to keep in mind if you’re on the mineral oil hating bandwagon.

Silicones
I really, really dislike silicones in skincare - and this moisturiser has loads of 'em. Like mineral oil, silicones are an occlusive moisturiser. They make the skin feel smooth and silky, but I think there are better ingredients like hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs etc. That said, I do love my Elemis Marine Cream, which has good ingredients and yes: silicones.

Mica

MICAAAAHHH!! Or not. Mica is typically added to make-up for some sparkle, and I'd rather it stayed there - I don't need a shimmery face cream! I've flagged it up because mica can be the culprit behind adverse reactions to mineral make-up.

PEGs
A small number of companies offer PEG-free products, typically organic/'natural' brands - e.g. Estelle & Thild, The Organic Pharmacy, balance Me, REN, Burt's Bees, Melvita and Dr. Hauschka. What's so bad about PEGs for companies to offer PEG-free products? According to truthinageing.com, the main concerns are: 

• An enhanced penetration effect -> important bc if your product contains a load of other crap, PEGs will make it easier for them to get deep down into the skin.
• PEGs are not always pure -> PEG-6 (which is in this cream) contains the by-product dioxane which is a known carcinogen. A reputable brand should remove the toxic impurities but ... yah I'm worried too after reading that haha.
• Concerns re damaged skin -> PEGs may cause irritation, but that usually depends on the state of the skin and ingredients in other stuff you're applying. So the bottom line is: avoid.

Uguisi no Fun

This is a centuries old beauty secret hailing from the Edo period. Women in ancient Japan applied uguisi no fun, which loosely translates to 'Nightingale Droppings' to lighten and soften their skin. Scientists at Decleor have given this ancient secret a new lease of life by isolating the natural enzymes and - I'm kidding. Just checking you're awake ;)

Would I buy it? Having used up my sample, I would not. The ingredients just aren't all that impressive. Some people might appreciate the suncream and moisturiser combo but I prefer to keep them separate. I avoid chemical filters and the SPF is too low for me - and you'd need to apply a lot of it to even get that sun protection. As a moisturiser, I found it absorbed well but wasn't very hydrating. I'd probably need to follow with an emulsion in hot/dry weather. The pump packaging is great, making it more hygienic than most of Decleor's other moisturisers (which are sold in jars), but otherwise not a superior product!

Review : Decleor Aromessence Mandarine Smoothing Night Balm

As promised many moons ago, here are the ingredients in Decleor's Aromessence Mandarine Smoothing Night Balm (£33.50/15ml). (No fancy botanical names in Latin. Sorry) 

Ingredients

Sunflower Seed Oil - contains Vitamin E. Helps repair the skin and reduce inflammation 

Cera Alba (Beeswax) - thickening agent. Emollient properties

Wheat Germ Oil - emollient

Evening Primrose Oil - anti-inflammatory properties

Coconut Oil - high in fatty acids and acts as an emollient

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract - high in amino acids which helps repair skin

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) - hydrating

Theobroma Grandiflorum Fruit Extract (Cupuacu Butter) - Contains oleic acid (a fatty acid) which is moisturising and plant polyphenols which act as anti-oxidants. [Says Lush]

Carnauba Wax - thickening agent

Limonene - fragrant. Found in citrus oils

Orange Peel Oil - detoxifies and helps improve skin tone

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil - used to stabilise products

Rice Bran Wax - occlusive moisturiser (I think?). Forms a barrier over the skin - like mineral oil hm...

Mandarin Orange Peel Oil - Decleor have apparently proven that the anti-oxidant powers of mandarin essential oil helps maintain skins’ youthfulness (in vitro tests)

Grapefruit Extract - anti-oxidant. Can be irritating in large amounts

Linalool - fragrance ingredient

Bergamot Fruit Oil - citrus oil (photo-toxic)

Michelia Alba Leaf Oil - fragrance ingredient

Tocopherol - Vitamin E 

Gardenia Tahitensis Flower - smells nice, not sure what it does in skincare

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil - astringent properties

Soybean Oil - helps improve skin tone and is a source of anti-oxidants

Citral - fragrance ingredient

Bitter Orange Flower Oil - may help control oil production

Geraniol, Farnesol, Citronellol - fragrance ingredients

The night balm and the Aromessence Mandarine serum have a number of common ingredients (in orange), like sunflower seed oil and evening primrose oil which are both top five and of course the star ingredient, mandarin essential oil.

It's times like this that I think keeping this log is useful (to me, if not to anyone else lol) because I also noticed that a few of the ingredients are in the cleanser and serum from REN - products which mon visage did not like. Limonene, linalool and tocopherol are at the bottom of the lists so are hardly worth a bother. The balm and Omega 3 serum both contain wheat germ oil and the balm and the clay cleanser both contain sunflower seed oil in the top five ingredients, so I thought one of those could be the cause. I checked my Iris night balm from Decleor and found it has sunflower seed oil and wheat germ oil - yet didn’t give me any problems. In other words: I still have no idea whats wrong with my skin.

Anyhoo as usual I’m going totally off-topic and rambling on about ingredients when a one line review would suffice: I do not like. I tried the new Aroma Lisse products at the beginning of April but stopped after a few days because my skin broke out. At the end of April I thought I’d give this balm another go and in a matter of days, little spotties reappeared…

For that reason I wouldn’t recommend this product. If anything, I’d recommend the Iris night balm (£34.50/15ml) instead. The main ingredients in it are jojoba oil, hazel seed oil, beeswax, sunflower seed oil, shea butter and wheat germ oil so there is some similarity in the formula. (If you wanted the benefits of evening primrose etc. you could buy it as a separate product.) Both ranges are designed to regenerate and hydrate the skin, fight free radical damage and reduce the appearance of wrinkles - but have different target markets. (I wonder if 25-30 year olds were put off using a product recommended for "mature" skin (Jesus Wept I'm not that old/have I aged terribly etc.) and hence the new Mandarine range was born.) I’ve had a better experience with the Iris balm and it’s also free of the potentially irritating citrus extracts.

All Decleor balms are quite waxy, which I don’t mind and find to be quite nice for a little facial massage. My Mom, on the other hand, finds them weird and gross, having used only creams for the last 30 years. It’s definitely worth getting a sample if you’re interested in the Mandarine balm to try out the texture (and in case you have a reaction). The products are pricey but at least Decleor are generous with their samples!

Finally, old customers will be pleased to hear that the packaging of the night balms been re-vamped. The lid on my Iris balm didn’t close properly and was always wonky :/ Very annoying, given how much this little thing cost so in the end I transferred it into another pot. Thankfully, the new jars don’t have this problem :)