Review: Blossom Jeju 100% Camellia Seed Oil & Pink Camellia Soombi Blooming Flower Toner

The world of K-Beauty has introduced me to some interesting ingredients: propolis, birds nests, galactomyces, snails, starfish, fermented soybeans, fermented everything, and most recently: camellia oil. Ok it doesn't sound as jazzy as the others but it's one I've heard good things about (the wisdom of of ahjumeonis and obasamas). It seems to be a well-known but fairly uncommon ingredient - except in Tatcha products which cost serious $$. Like $28 for a sheet mask. Enter Blossom Jeju!

100% Camellia Seed Oil

Packaging & Texture

The Oil comes in a glass amber dropper bottle which protects it from degradation in sunlight. (The sort of thing that Klairs serum should have been packaged in...)

I use the Oil as the last step in my night routine. It absorbs well but not fully so I wouldn't use it during the day unless you can really rock that oily sheen.

Ingredients

100% cold pressed camellia seed oil

Camellia seed oil is a powerful antioxidant rich in Omegas 3, 6 and 9; fatty acids, which help improve skin elasticity; Vitamin E and polyphenols, which protect the skin from free radical damage.

By comparison, the Camellia Soombi Essence Oil contains 73.09% Camellia japonica seed oil and the Pink Camellia Soombi Essence Serum contains 62.40% Camellia japonica flower extract. The mixture of oils would probably be more effective than using camellia seed oil alone, but I didn't want to chance them because olive oil gives me breakouts :(

Results

Antioxidant serums are kinda hard to review because they’re one of those things that work without necessarily showing visible results. My skin hasn't dramatically transformed in the few weeks I’ve been using the Oil, but it does leave my skin feeling soft and supple after use and healthy and glowy looking in the morning.

Pink Camellia Soombi Blooming Flower Toner

I think I'm in the minority when I say the lotion/essence step is my favourite part of my skincare routine. I like watery textures and layering different products to get the benefit of different ingredients, like hyaluronic acid, CoQ10, galactomyces, green tea, rose water, grape water ... 

Packaging & Texture

Look at that beautiful bottle! ᕙ( * •̀ ᗜ •́ * )ᕗ The lotion is dispensed via a small hole in the top and it's easy to control how much comes out. The texture is slightly more viscous than water (similar to the Gokujyun lotion) and absorbs easily. 

Smell

(Nado smeelllll~) Whereas the Oil is almost odourless, the Toner is VERY strongly scented. It's a bit too perfumey for my liking and the thought of diligently patting a crapload of perfume into my skin is a little concerning. I can't figure out why the smell is so strong when 'fragrance' is right at the end of the list. You'd think the answer was staring me in the face with 82.82% camellia flowers, but camellias don't smell. Donno.

Ingredients
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract (82.82%), Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Water, Akebia Quinata Extract (Chocolate Vine), Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Xanthan Gum, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Betaine, Sorbitol, Adenosine, Sorbitan Caprylate, Arginine, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract [Sicilian Prickly Pear], Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract [Green Tea], Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract [Japanese Knotweed], Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Trehalose, Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Levulinic Acid, Bioflavonoids, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract [Satsuma], Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract, Hizikia Fusiforme Extract [Hiziki], Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract [Milk Thistle], Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Yeast Beta-Glucan, Fragrance

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
One of the reasons I chose the Pink Toner over the Camellia Soombi Toner from the Hydration & Nutrition range (yellow bottle) was for the high percentage of Camellia japonica flower extract (82.82%) compared to 76.36% Camellia japonica flower water in the yellow toner.

If my two line analysis of the antioxidant properties of Camellia seed oil didn't impress you, I found a paper on the antioxidant effect, here. Yeah science!

Niacinamide
Lightens hyperpigmentation and brightens skintone. The Camellia Soombi Toner doesn't contain niacinamide which was another reason to chose the Pink Soombi Toner. I have a few products with niacinamide (Missha FTE, Black Snails, Placenta 45) and they seem to be working well so I'm always happy to add more niacinamide to my routine! 

Akebia Quinata Extract (Chocolate Vine)

Provides an an anti-ageing effect through anti-glycation (stops the breakdown of collagen).  

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Known for it's anti-inflammatory and brightening effect.

Adenosine
Promotes the production of collagen.

Antioxidants
This Toner is packed FULL of anti-oxidant plant extracts. I ran them through Beautypedia because I don't speak plant and was impressed to find they all had a 'best' or 'good' rating, except for your 'average' rosemary and satsuma.

Hydrating Ingredients  
[Listed in blue:] Glycerin, panthenol, sorbitol, hyaluronic acid (humectants), trehalose and Aloe barbadensis leaf extract (water-binding ingredients). Humectants draw water to the skin to give effective surface hydration.

I don't give ratings to products, but this one deserves a 0/10 for its ingredients! ♡

Results
The Toner leaves my skin feeling hydrated and luminous but as a standalone product I don't think it's made a noticeable difference in lightening my PIH.

Overall Impressions
All in all I'm very happy with these products. When you wake up, wash your face and look like you've applied make-up, you know something is working right! 

Where to Buy
I bought my goodies directly from Blossom Jeju, linked below:

• 100% Camellia Seed Oil ($30/20ml). Also sold on Glow Recipe

• Pink Camellia Soombi Blooming Flower Toner ($45/120ml). Also sold on Glow Recipe
  
  

One Week On - Decleor's Aroma Lisse Range

So, I stopped using the new Aroma Lisse products after less than a week - care to guess why? SPOTS. Effing spots AGAIN. Standard way of knowing whether something works for me. I don't believe your skin needs to "get used" to new products - that’s your skin saying “Hello, I’m inflamed. Be a good fellow and stop torturing me aye?.” It started off with two spots on my cheek (where I’ve never ever had spots before). A few days later I sprouted two more spots on my forehead and figured that was the time to stop before they formed a constellation. Once again, I don’t know which product is the culprit, but since there are four spots for four products I’ll divide the blame equally.

I wish I could pinpoint one ingredient causing irritation but there are quite a few suspects: shea butter, citrusy stuff (mandarin essential oil, bergamot fruit oil, lemon peel oil), generic “fragrance”, fragranced essential oils or even non-fragrant essential oils … Which are all ingredients in some other products I use that haven't caused any problems! Perhaps I’m overloading my skin? Whatever the reason, I’m not particularly enthused by this line. Sorry Decleor.

April resolution: I’ve tested a lot of new products since the start of the year so for the next few weeks I’m going to give my skin a break and stick to my tried and tested routine.

Review : Decleor New Aroma Lisse Range

Today's most will probably be the first and last of its kind: a review of something that's NEW! Holy Crust on a Cracker. Decleor released their new Aroma Lisse range on 1st April, aimed at preventing and correcting the first signs of ageing. The line-up is:
~ Aromessence Mandarine Smoothing Serum (£49.50/15ml)
~ Energising Smoothing Cream (SPF 15) (£52/50ml)
~ Aromessence Mandarine Smoothing Night Balm (£33.50/15ml)
~ 2-in-1 Dark Circle & Eye Wrinkle Eraser (£32.00/15ml)

Since I do not have the benefit of sponsors to send me free stuff before launch, I visited a department store to nab some samples to try out ;) I wanted to snap pictures of the packaging and look up the ingredients (since Decleor do not publish ingredients lists online *growl* Even the "key ingredients" tab is blank!!) but ... well. I forgot. At least the sample of the Aromessence serum has the ingredients printed on the back. As for the rest... I'm trusting Decleor and hoping for the best haha.

First Thoughts:
Aromessence Mandarine Smoothing Serum
Absorbs quickly and without any shininess - which was unexpected, because when I applied some against the back of my hand in store there was an obvious sheen. Smells like lemon rind.

Ingredients:
Hazel Seed Oil - moisturising, has astringent properties and helps protect skin against free radical damage
Camellia Kissi Seed Oil - moisturising. Have to mention that this originates from Japan! Banzai!
Sunflower Seed Oil - contains Vitamin E. Helps repair the skin and reduce inflammation
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil - anti-inflammatory properties
Evening Primrose Oil - anti-inflammatory properties
Mandarin Orange Peel Oil - Mandarin Essential Oil is a key ingredients in the Aroma Lisse range, which Decleor have apparently proven to have "preventive and correcting properties". This oil is made of 80% D-Limonene which "effectively stimulates youth protection within the skin by protecting and detoxifying cells from damage caused by free radicals. In addition it also repairs DNA damaged by UV radiation." Sounds great but general internetting hasn't produced anything to back up this claim! The most I've heard about Limonene is that it's an irritant and photo-toxic. Not sure what to make of this!
Bergamot Fruit Oil - another citrus oil, also known for photo-toxicity
Linalool - fragrance ingredient
Michelia Alba Leaf Oil - can't seem to find much on this, other than it being used primarily in perfumes
Lemon Peel Oil - detoxifies the skin and helps improve skin tone. I'm starting to feel some de ja va...
Tocopherol - AKA Vitamin E
Grapefruit Extract - anti-oxidant. Potentially irritating to skin but I've read that it's OK in small amounts
Soybean Oil - helps improve skin tone and is a source of anti-oxidants.
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil  - astringent properties. Like other citrus oils it can cause skin irritation.
Citral & Citronellol - fragrance ingredients

Night Balm
I found this to be much less heavy and oily-feeling than other Decleor balms (e.g. Iris and Ylang Ylang) but there is still some shine. You're going to bed so who cares? It leaves your skin soft and smooth like a baby's cheeks. Really. I've never found my own face to be so cute. Also has the less than endearing smell of lemon rind.
Update: full ingredients list and review here

Eye Cream
Even without an ingredients list to look at I'm pretty sure this contains yellow pigments to give it dark circle erasing properties. Try to dispel the image of yellow eye bags that that brings to mind - it won't make you look jaundiced. I was left with a yellowy residue on my ring finger after applying but I couldn't see any difference to the eye area.
Update: complete ingredients list & review here

Energising Smoothing Cream
The cream has a smooth, thick texture (thicker than Hydra Floral) but doesn't feel at all heavy on the skin. My make-up and other products went on fine afterwards, no piling or other annoyances. Unlike the Hydra Floral cream which is packaged in a jar, this product (full-size) comes in a twist pump bottle which has the benefit of being more hygienic and less fiddly without spatulas and all that. It's also better for preserving the ingredients. The downside is that product tends to get stuck in the bottom and wasted, as happened to me with the Aroma Purete Fluide :(
This product also differs from Decleor's other offerings in being the only moisturiser with sun protection (excluding the Sun Expert range, smartypants). I wish it wasn't though. I feel like it reduces the size of useful moisturiser with useless suncream because cosmetics/skincare with added SPF don't provide adequate sun protection. I use a separate suncream so it doesn't make sense to buy a moisturiser with SPF.
My other peeve with products+SPF is that they tend to use chemical suncream - which I avoid. I don't know whether this is chemical or mineral, but I'll update in due course.
Final comment: smells like lemon rind. Just take it as given that EVERYTHING SMELLS LIKE LEMON PEEL.
Update: complete ingredients list & review here

Will I be buying the full sizes?
The day cream is lovely - it's so hydrating and "smoothing" just as it claims. As much as I like it, the SPF has put me off. :( As for the eye cream, I'm not too keen on putting lemon juice around my eyes. It stings a little if you get it in the tear ducts! The Aromessence serum and night balm are my favourites - and these are the products which I think Decleor do best. I'm quite impressed with the amount of anti-oxidants in the serum, but I'm not entirely sold on the mandarin and citrus oils. Which is only like the whole point of Aromessence "Mandarine". I have at least five serums in my collection to use up before I even consider buying another! The night balm is another thing that I "want" but don't "need". (Have multiple night creams and balms) Yah I have way too much stuff in general. Maybe when I've managed to get a list of ingredients and when my other stuff runs out I'll make a little trip to Decleor...

Prices:
First of all, Liberty has 10% off this week *runs to Regent Street like maniac* Right. The Serum works out to be around £326/100ml and the Baume around £223/100ml WHICH IS FLIPPING INSANE. Have you seen what a 15ml bottle looks like? It's about the size of a Haribo sour dummy. Complete joke. Once you've mustered up the courage to buy a serum/balm, YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT. Decleor = Fantastic.